Ausangate Climbing (6,384 m) 6 Days – The Ultimate Andean Challenge

Ausangate Climbing Expedition (6,384 m) 6 Days

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Ausangate Climbing Expedition (6,384 m) is a high-altitude mountaineering challenge in the Peruvian Andes, designed for experienced climbers seeking a technical ascent in the Vilcanota Range. As the highest peak in southern Peru, Mount Ausangate requires solid ice climbing skills, endurance, and proper acclimatization.

The expedition starts in Pacchanta, allowing climbers to acclimatize gradually before reaching base camp. The route includes a 200-meter ice wall, snow-covered plateaus, and exposed sections that demand confidence in crampon and ice axe techniques.

This Ausangate climb is not a trekking route; it is a true alpine expedition that combines physical endurance with technical mountaineering. From the summit at 6,384 meters, climbers are rewarded with panoramic views of glaciers, high-altitude lagoons, and the vast Vilcanota Mountain Range.

Why Choose the Ausangate Climbing Expedition

  • Summit Mount Ausangate (6,384 m)
  • Climb the highest peak in the Vilcanota Range and one of the most demanding mountains in southern Peru.
  • Technical mountaineering route
  • Includes a 200-meter ice wall, snow slopes, and high-exposure alpine terrain requiring prior ice climbing experience.
  • Strategic acclimatization plan
  • Gradual ascent starting in Pacchanta, increasing summit success and safety.
  • Remote high-altitude landscapes
  • Glaciers, turquoise lagoons, and Andean valleys viewed from above 6,000 meters.
  • Certified mountain guides and technical equipment
  • IFMGA/UIAGM-trained guides, rope systems, and safety protocols adapted to high-altitude climbing.
  • Detailed Itinerary
  • Included & Not Included
  • Prices & Availability
  • Packing List
  • FAQ
  • Photos
  • Reservation Policy

Ausangate Climbing Expedition Itinerary – 6 Days (6,384 m)

The Ausangate Climbing Expedition (6,384 m) is a 6-day high-altitude mountaineering program designed for experienced climbers seeking a technical ascent in the Peruvian Andes. As the highest peak in the Vilcanota Range and one of the most challenging mountains in southern Peru, Mount Ausangate requires solid acclimatization, endurance, and advanced ice-climbing skills.

This expedition combines approach trekking, glacier travel, steep ice climbing, and alpine exposure, following a strategic acclimatization plan to maximize summit success and safety. The route crosses remote Andean landscapes, glaciers, high passes, and includes a controlled visit to Rainbow Mountain during the descent.

Day 1: Cusco – Pacchanta – Pachaspata Camp (Acclimatization & Approach)

Departure: 4:30 a.m.
Maximum altitude: 4,700 m
Hiking time: ~6 hours

Day 1 of the Ausangate Climbing Expedition begins with an early departure from Cusco and a scenic 3.5-hour drive to Pacchanta (4,334 m), a traditional Andean village known for its hot springs and Quechua culture.

Upon arrival, we meet the expedition team (certified mountain guide, support staff, and cook) and enjoy breakfast while organizing technical mountaineering equipment, including harnesses, crampons, ice axes, helmets, and ropes.

The day focuses on acclimatization and approach hiking, not technical climbing. We hike through the Ausangate 7 Lagoons Circuit, gaining our first views of the Ausangate massif and surrounding glaciers. After approximately six hours of trekking, we reach Pachaspata Camp (4,700 m), where we spend the night under a clear high-altitude sky.

Day 2: Pachaspata – Jampa Pass (5,100 m) – Ausangate Base Camp

Maximum altitude: 5,100 m
Hiking time: ~7 hours

On Day 2 of the Ausangate Climbing itinerary, we begin a steady ascent toward Jampa Pass (5,100 m), one of the highest trekking passes of the expedition. From the pass, we enjoy expansive views of the Vilcanota Mountain Range, glaciers, and high-altitude valleys.

After descending to Surapata for lunch, we continue toward Ausangate Base Camp (5,100 m). Upon arrival, we establish camp and take a short acclimatization walk to Chocolate Lagoon, a unique dark-colored glacial lake.

This day reinforces altitude adaptation and prepares the body for the technical stages ahead.

Day 3: Base Camp – Moraine Camp (5,500 m)

Maximum altitude: 5,500 m
Hiking time: ~5 hours

Day 3 marks the transition from trekking to technical mountaineering on Ausangate. After an early breakfast, we ascend across glacial moraines and mixed alpine terrain, encountering slopes of up to 60 degrees.

The ascent leads us to Moraine Camp (5,500 m), a high-altitude camp positioned for summit day. Upon arrival, the guides conduct a mandatory technical and safety briefing, reviewing:

  • Ice-climbing techniques

  • Proper use of crampons and ice axes

  • Rope systems and glacier safety

  • Summit-day strategy and timing

The afternoon is dedicated to rest, hydration, and final preparation.

Day 4: Moraine Camp – Ausangate Summit (6,384 m) – Base Camp

Maximum altitude: 6,384 m
Ascent time: ~10 hours
Descent time: ~6 hours

Summit Day on Mount Ausangate is the most demanding and technical stage of the expedition.

At 11:00 p.m., we wake for a light meal and begin the night ascent, a key factor for safe glacier conditions. At the glacier base, we rope up and equip crampons, ice axes, and harnesses.

Technical climbing sections:

  • Steep glacier ascent under headlamp conditions

  • 200-meter ice wall with slopes reaching 65 degrees, requiring rope-assisted ice climbing and mixed techniques

  • High-exposure snow plateau leading to the final summit push

Reaching the Ausangate Summit (6,384 m) at sunrise offers breathtaking panoramic views of glaciers, high-altitude lagoons, and the vast Andean landscape.

After a short summit stay, we descend using controlled ice rappels and return to Base Camp in the afternoon for a well-earned rest.

Day 5: Base Camp – Palomani Pass (5,200 m) – Ananta Camp

Maximum altitude: 5,200 m
Hiking time: ~6 hours

On Day 5 of the Ausangate Climbing Expedition, we descend from Base Camp toward Palomani Pass (5,200 m), the highest trekking pass of the route.

From the pass, we enjoy unobstructed views of Ausangate, Mariposa, and surrounding snow-capped peaks. The route continues through open Andean valleys, often populated by alpacas and llamas, before reaching Ananta Camp.

A hot dinner and a calm night mark the gradual return to lower elevations.

Day 6: Ananta – Rainbow Mountain – Cusco

Maximum altitude: 4,977 m
Hiking time: ~5 hours

The final day of the Ausangate Climbing itinerary includes an early ascent to Warmisaya Pass (4,977 m), followed by a visit to the Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca) viewpoint during a low-traffic time window.

After descending through Vinicunca Valley, we meet our private transportation and return to Cusco, arriving around 4:00 p.m., concluding the expedition with a strong sense of achievement.

What’s Included in the Ausangate Climbing Expedition (6,384 m)?

Our expedition is designed to ensure safety, comfort, and an unforgettable experience on one of the most impressive mountains in the Peruvian Andes.

Personalized Planning & Advisory

  • Online consultation via WhatsApp with a mountaineering expert.
  • Detailed expedition planning based on your experience and fitness level.
  • Recommendations on acclimatization, necessary gear, and pre-trip preparation.

Professional Guides & Support Team

  • Certified high-mountain guide with extensive experience in ice climbing routes.
  • Training in high-altitude first aid and technical rescue.
  • In-depth knowledge of the Ausangate ascent route and Andean culture.
  • Experienced muleteers trained in logistical support and camp management.

Safe & Comfortable Private Transportation

  • Private transfers from Cusco to Pacchanta and back from Rainbow Mountain.
  • Vehicles certified for safety and comfort, adapted for Andean routes.

Camping & Mountaineering Equipment

Individual Camping Equipment

  • High-mountain four-person tent (double occupancy).
  • Insulated sleeping mat and thermal blanket.
  • Personal duffle bag with a 7 kg gear allowance.

Fully Equipped Base Camp

  • Dining tent with tables and chairs.
  • Kitchen tent with all necessary utensils.
  • Sanitary tent and rest areas at designated campsites.

Technical Ice Climbing Gear

Personal Equipment

  • Harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, carabiner, ATC descender, and Daisy chain.

Group Equipment

  • Dynamic and static ropes, ice screws, snow stakes, anchors, and other essential ice climbing gear.

Complete Expedition Meals

  • Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks included.
  • Fresh, locally sourced ingredients.
  • Meal options for vegetarians, vegans, and gluten-free diets.
  • Traditional Andean, Peruvian, and international dishes prepared by our expedition chef.

Hygiene & Environmental Responsibility

  • Personal hygiene items: Soap and towels for handwashing before and after meals.
  • Eco-friendly approach: Use of biodegradable products and responsible waste management.**

Emergency Logistics & Safety

  • First aid kit with essential medications.
  • Oxygen available at all times to prevent and treat altitude symptoms.
  • Rescue equipment: Evacuation stretchers and pneumatic splints for emergencies.

Official Permits & Entrance Fees Included

  • Access to Ausangate National Park.
  • Entry to Rainbow Mountain (Vinicunca).
  • Authorized campsites along the climbing route.

This expedition ensures safety, comfort, and an unparalleled experience on the most challenging peak in Cusco. Get ready to conquer Ausangate!

Not Included in the Ausangate Climbing Expedition (6,384 m)

For greater transparency in planning your expedition, we detail the services and equipment not included in the package:

  • Transportation outside the expedition.
  • Climbing boots.
  • Sleeping bag.
  • Final dinner of the expedition.
  • Personal expenses.
  • Personal equipment such as clothing, sunglasses, headlamp, or other necessary accessories.
  • Entrance fee to the Pacchanta hot springs.
  • Trekking poles.

Optional Additional Services

If you require extra comfort or assistance during the expedition, you can request the following additional services:

Additional horse: If at any point you feel unable to keep up with the expedition pace, you can rent a horse for USD 20.00 per day.

Personal tent: If you prefer an individual tent, you can book this service for USD 5.00 per night, totaling USD 20.00 for 4 nights.

Mountaineering boots: Available in sizes 36 to 42 (US 6 to 9). The cost is USD 20.00 per day or USD 120.00 for the entire expedition. Larger sizes are not available.

Sleeping bag: Available for rent at USD 5.00 per day or USD 30.00 for the entire expedition.

If you need any of these additional services, we recommend reserving them in advance to ensure availability.

Rates and Availability – Ausangate Climbing Expedition (2025)

The Ausangate Climbing Expedition is available exclusively during the months of June and July, in group and private modalities.

Departures are guaranteed with a minimum of 2 people.

Expedition Rates

Group Tour – Price per Person

  • USD 1800.00 per person
  • A minimum of 2 participants is required to open a new group
  • Solo travelers can join an existing group of up to 4 people

Prices do not include VAT (18%) and are in U.S. dollars, with the possibility of conversion to other currencies.

Private Tour – Personalized Quote

  • Exclusive and personalized service
  • Available on any date from May to August
  • Ideal for those seeking greater privacy and flexibility

Contact us to receive a personalized quote based on group size and season.

Dates and Availability

  • Group Tour: Subject to availability, departures are only confirmed with a minimum group of 3 people
  • Private Tour: Available on any date in May, June, July, and August

If you wish to confirm a specific date, contact us in advance to check availability.

Reservation Policies

  • It is recommended to book at least 2 months in advance to ensure availability
  • 100% payment is required at least 1 month before departure to confirm the reservation

Payment Methods

  • PayPal: Payments via credit or debit card (a 6% fee applies for international transactions)
  • Bank Transfer: Available for national and international deposits
  • Yape or Plin: Available only in Peru
  • Cash Payment: Available at our office

Changes and Cancellation Policies

  • Rescheduling is allowed with prior notice (except for Machu Picchu tours)
  • No-show on the day of the tour will result in total loss of the service
  • Cancellations or withdrawals from the expedition are non-refundable

Book in advance and review the conditions before confirming your participation in this unique Ausangate expedition.

Frequently Asked Questions About Climbing Ausangate (6,384 m)

To help you plan your expedition, we have compiled the most frequently asked questions about climbing Ausangate. Here, you'll find information about difficulty, equipment, acclimatization, costs, and more.

1. Where is Ausangate located, and why is it famous?

Ausangate is located in the Vilcanota Mountain Range in the Cusco region, Peru. It is the highest mountain in Cusco and the fifth highest in Peru, standing at 6,384 meters above sea level. It is famous for its glaciers, turquoise lagoons, and technical climbing route, considered one of the most challenging in the country.

2. How long does the Ausangate expedition last?

The expedition lasts 6 days and 5 nights, including acclimatization, technical ascent, and descent.

3. What is the difficulty level of climbing Ausangate?

The Ausangate climb is technical and challenging, recommended for mountaineers with experience in ice climbing and high-altitude expeditions. Skills in using crampons, ice axes, rope belaying, and endurance for extreme conditions are required.

4. What is the best time to climb Ausangate?

The best season to climb is between May and August, when the weather is drier and more stable, reducing the risk of avalanches and snowstorms.

5. Do I need mountaineering experience to climb Ausangate?

Yes, previous experience in high-altitude mountaineering and ice climbing is recommended. This expedition is not for beginners, as it includes glacier ascents with inclines of up to 65 degrees.

6. How does altitude affect climbers, and how can I acclimatize?

The expedition ranges between 4,300 and 6,384 meters, so altitude sickness is a risk. To minimize its effects:

  • Spend at least 2 days in Cusco before the expedition.
  • Stay hydrated and avoid alcohol.
  • Consume coca leaves or herbal infusions for acclimatization.
  • Ascend gradually without sudden exertion.

Our guides carry oxygen and a first aid kit for any emergency.

7. Where do we sleep during the expedition?

  • Nights 1 to 5: High-altitude mountain camps in thermal tents.

8. What essential equipment is required for climbing Ausangate?

The technical mandatory equipment includes:

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots (compatible with crampons).
  • Climbing harness, helmet, and technical ice axe.
  • Steel crampons for ice climbing.
  • Thermal mountaineering clothing and waterproof jacket.
  • Trekking poles.

If you don’t have this equipment, we offer rental services for specialized gear.

9. Can I rent climbing equipment in Cusco?

Yes, we offer rental services for:

  • High-altitude boots ($20 per day or $120 for the entire expedition).
  • Sleeping bag (-10°C to -18°C) ($5 per day or $30 for the entire expedition).
  • Personal tent ($5 per night or $20 for 4 nights).
  • Trekking poles.

10. What is included in the Ausangate expedition?

  • Certified high-altitude guide.
  • Private transport Cusco – Pacchanta – Cusco.
  • Full meals during the expedition.
  • Camping equipment (tents, sleeping mats, dining tent).
  • Technical climbing equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons, helmet, ropes).
  • First aid kit and oxygen.
  • Entrance fees to Ausangate National Park and Rainbow Mountain.

11. What is NOT included in the expedition?

  • Transportation outside the itinerary.
  • Climbing boots, sleeping bag, and trekking poles.
  • Entrance to Pacchanta hot springs.
  • Personal expenses and the last dinner of the expedition.
  • Mandatory travel insurance.

12. What is the cost of the Ausangate expedition?

Group Tour:

  • $1,350 per person (minimum 2 climbers required to open a group, maximum 4 people).

Prices do not include IGV (18%).

13. How can I book the expedition?

Reservations must be made at least 2 months in advance. A 30% deposit is required to confirm the booking, and the remaining balance must be paid 1 month before departure.

Payment Methods:

  • PayPal (6% fee for international transactions).
  • Bank transfer.
  • Yape or Plin (only available in Peru).
  • Cash payment in our Cusco office.

14. What is the cancellation policy?

  • More than 7 days in advance: 90% refund.
  • 4 to 7 days in advance: 70% refund.
  • 2 days or less: No refunds.

15. What happens if the weather is bad on summit day?

Weather in high-altitude mountains is unpredictable. If conditions make the ascent unsafe, the guide will evaluate the best decision. Safety is our priority, and the route may be adjusted based on conditions.

16. Is it possible to take a shower during the expedition?

There are no showers in high-altitude camps. We recommend bringing wet wipes for personal hygiene.

17. Can I relax in the Pacchanta hot springs after the expedition?

Yes, at the end of the climb, you can choose to visit the Pacchanta hot springs. The entrance fee is not included in the package and must be paid on-site.

18. How does climbing Ausangate compare to other mountains in Peru?

Ausangate is a less crowded expedition with a higher technical level than Alpamayo or Huascarán. It is ideal for mountaineers seeking an extreme high-altitude challenge in the Andes with fewer tourists.

19. Why choose our Ausangate expedition?

  • Exclusive route with small groups.
  • Certified guides with experience in technical climbing.
  • Fully equipped campsites with complete logistics.
  • Detailed planning to maximize acclimatization and performance.
  • Guaranteed safety with oxygen, first aid, and rescue equipment.
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Packing List for Ausangate Climbing (6,384 m) – Complete Guide

Preparing with the right gear is key to a successful expedition to Ausangate. Due to extreme altitude, temperature changes, and challenging terrain, having the right technical clothing, climbing equipment, and essential accessories is crucial to ensuring safety, comfort, and performance in the mountains.

Here is the complete recommended packing list for the Ausangate climb, optimized to provide cold protection, camp comfort, and efficiency for ice and snow climbing.

1. Documentation and Money

  • Original passport or ID (required for entry into protected areas).
  • Travel insurance card (recommended coverage for high-altitude trekking and rescue).
  • Cash in Peruvian soles (PEN) or US dollars (for personal expenses, tips, or additional services).

2. Backpacks and Gear Organization

  • Trekking backpack (30-45L) with lumbar support and space for essential items.
  • Duffle bag (up to 7 kg) (carried by porters).
  • Waterproof bags to protect clothing and electronic devices.

3. Technical Clothing for High Altitude

  • Quick-dry thermal shirts (2-3 units).
  • Down or synthetic insulated jacket (for sub-zero temperatures).
  • Waterproof and windproof jacket (Gore-Tex or similar).
  • Waterproof trekking pants (preferably convertible).
  • Merino wool or synthetic thermal base layers.
  • High-altitude thermal socks (minimum 3 pairs).
  • Thermal and waterproof gloves (double-layer recommended).
  • Wool hat and balaclava or neck buff.
  • Additional waterproof pants (for rain or snow).
  • Comfortable clothing for the campsites.

4. Footwear for the Climb

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots (compatible with automatic or semi-automatic crampons).
  • Light sandals or trekking shoes (for use at campsites).

5. Technical Gear for Ice Climbing (Some items are included in the expedition)

  • Ice climbing harness.
  • Certified climbing helmet.
  • Steel crampons (with automatic or semi-automatic bindings).
  • Technical ice axe.
  • Locking carabiners and ATC belay device.
  • Accessory cord for self-anchoring.
  • Snow stakes and ice screws (for those bringing personal gear).

6. Hydration and Food

  • Reusable water bottle (minimum 2L) or hydration system (CamelBak).
  • Thermos for hot drinks (ideal for cold nights).
  • High-energy snacks (protein bars, nuts, chocolate).
  • Water purification tablets or portable filter.

7. Sun and Cold Protection

  • SPF 50+ sunscreen (essential at high altitudes).
  • Lip balm with UV protection.
  • Sunglasses with UV filter and snow protection.
  • Insect repellent with DEET (useful in lower sections of the expedition).

8. Camping Gear (If not rented with us)

  • High-altitude sleeping bag (-10°C to -20°C).

9. Safety and First Aid

  • Personal first-aid kit (including basic medications and blister patches).
  • Aspirin or Diamox (optional, for altitude acclimatization – consult a doctor).
  • Headlamp with extra batteries (essential for night ascents).
  • Portable oxygen (recommended for those sensitive to altitude).

10. Personal Hygiene Items

  • Toothbrush and toothpaste.
  • Wet wipes and toilet paper.
  • Hand sanitizer or alcohol gel.
  • Quick-dry towel.

11. Additional Accessories

  • Trekking poles (preferably telescopic with rubber tips).
  • Camera or GoPro (to capture the epic landscapes).
  • Power bank or portable battery (no electricity access on the route).

Final Recommendations for Ausangate Climbing

  • Pre-acclimatization: It is recommended to spend at least 2 days in Cusco before the expedition to minimize the risk of altitude sickness.
  • Check the weather forecast in the Vilcanota Mountain Range before departure.
  • Pack smart: Bring only essential items to avoid unnecessary weight.
  • Physical preparation: Training with high-altitude hikes and endurance exercises will help improve performance on the expedition.

Ausangate Climbing Policies

To ensure a safe and well-organized expedition, we have established the following policies and conditions. We recommend reading them carefully before making your reservation.

Important Considerations

  • If a participant decides to withdraw from the expedition, they will be responsible for any additional costs, such as food, transportation, or accommodation.
  • No refunds will be issued in the following cases:
    • Delays or cancellations of flights, buses, or local transportation.
    • Adverse weather conditions affecting the climb.
    • Health issues or personal decision to abandon the expedition.

Reservation and Confirmation

To confirm your reservation, a 30% payment of the total expedition cost is required.

Cancellation Policies

If you need to cancel your reservation, the following conditions apply:

  • 7 days or more in advance: 90% refund of the total amount.
  • 4 to 7 days in advance: 70% refund of the total amount.
  • 2 days or less in advance: No refund.

Important: In case of cancellation, administrative and banking fees are non-refundable.

Date Changes

If you need to reschedule your expedition (only valid for private tours), the following conditions apply:

  • More than 5 days in advance: No additional charge.
  • 3 to 5 days in advance: 20% additional fee of the total cost.
  • 2 days or less in advance: No date changes or refunds allowed.

Date changes are subject to availability.

Contact for Information and Assistance

If you need more information about the Ausangate Climbing Expedition, feel free to contact us:

  • Email: info@huillcaexpedition.com
  • WhatsApp: +51 918 970 611

We recommend reviewing these policies before booking to avoid any inconvenience. We are here to help you plan your ascent to Ausangate and make this expedition an unforgettable experience.

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