Ausangate Climbing in 6 Days - Huillca Expedition

Ausangate Climbing in 6 Days

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Are you looking for an exciting and challenging adventure in the majestic Cusco? Ausangate climbing is the answer! Despite being one of the most challenging expeditions, the feeling of reaching the summit of the highest peak of Ausangate is an unforgettable and rewarding experience. Imagine the breathtaking views of the Vilcanota mountain range from an altitude of 6384 meters above sea level.

The expedition starts in the Pacchanta community, where you can experience the culture and daily life of the region's inhabitants. From there, climbers head to the Ausangate base camp to acclimatize and prepare for the upcoming challenge. During the expedition, they will face two notable challenges on the route: a 200-meter wall with a 65° incline and the plateau, which sometimes accumulates a lot of snow. But don't worry, with good physical and mental preparation, high-quality climbing equipment, and an experienced and certified guide, you'll be ready to reach the summit.

In addition to the excitement and challenge of climbing, the Ausangate expedition also offers the opportunity to explore the natural beauty of the surrounding area, including the famous mountain full of beautiful colors. Once you have reached the top, you will enjoy panoramic views and take stunning photographs before returning to Cusco with a life experience you will never forget. Join our expedition and experience one of the most exciting adventures that Cusco has to offer.

  • Overview
  • Itinerary
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  • Recommendations
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  • Faq's

Ausangate Climbing Summary

Nevado Ausangate is the fifth highest peak in Peru at 6,384 m, and the highest of the seven 6000 m peaks in the Cusco Region. The first ascent to the main summit in 1953 was led by the famous Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer, part of the first team to conquer the north face of the Eiger and of the book/film "Seven Years in Tibet". Ausangate is by far the best known major peak for mountaineering in Cusco, as the normal route is not that difficult from a technical point of view, although a good amount of endurance is needed for the break on the summit plateau. Ausangate is Cusco's main Apu and can be seen from many places in the city. There are fewer tourists visiting this province of Cusco, but it is becoming increasingly popular as a dry season circuit trekking destination.

Itinerary summary

Day 1. Cusco, Pacchanta Community, Pachaspata
Day 2. Pachaspata, Ausangate Base Camp
Day 3. Ausangate Camp Base, Ausangate Morrine Camp
Day 4. Ausangate morrine Camp, Summit (6,384m/20,939f), Camp Base
Day 5. Camp Base, Ananta
Day 6. Ananta Camp, Rainbow Mountain, Cusco

Ausangate Climbing Route

Ausangate Climbing Route

Ausangate Climbing Itinerary

Day 1. Cusco, Pacchanta Community, Pachaspata

The Ausangate climbing expedition starts with the pick up from the hotel in Cusco at 4.30 am. The trip takes approximately 3.3 hours to reach the community of Pacchanta (4334 masl), where the travel team (guide, muleteers, cook) will be waiting for us with breakfast at our lodge. After breakfast we will prepare the logistics and personal equipment (harness, boots, crampons, helmet), hardware among others, not to forget any material for use in the mountain.
This hike is done with the intention of acclimatization, interacting with the environment and gaining altitude for the Ausangate climb.
The actual hike begins with an approach to the Ausangate lagoons, during the first part we will have a panoramic view of the community of Pacchanta famous for its hot springs and alpaca breeding.
After a walk of 1 hour and a half we will arrive at the circuit of the 7 lagoons of Ausangate where we will be visiting each of them that are very beautiful and colorful. During our hike we will be seeing the summit of Ausangate 6384 masl from the north face. The campsite for this first day is Pacchaspata on the east side of the Ausangate mountain.

Day 2. Pachaspata, Ausangate Base Camp

After a restful night at the Pachaspata campsite, we geared up for an early hike to Paso Jampa, one of the highest points of the trek at an altitude of 5100 meters above sea level. This stretch of the hike can be challenging as the altitude may affect breathing and energy, but the panoramic views from the top of the pass make it completely worth it.

Descending from Paso Jampa, we will arrive at the Surapata campsite where we will stop to rest and recharge before beginning the ascent to the Base Camp for the climb to Ausangate. This will be an exciting stretch of the hike as we approach the largest mountain in the region. We will feel the excitement grow as we get closer, and our view fills with the magnificence of Ausangate.

Once we arrive at Base Camp, we will have the opportunity to set up our campsite, prepare our equipment, and enjoy the surrounding views. From here, we can observe the majestic Ausangate in all its glory, a reminder of the vastness of nature and our own adventurous spirit.

After settling in, we will explore the surroundings and take a light hike to the Chocolate Lake. This lake is known for its distinctive dark brown color, which creates a strong contrast with the surrounding mountainous landscape and makes it even more impressive. As we walk around the lake, we can enjoy the natural beauty that surrounds us and take some stunning photographs.

After a day full of adventures, we will return to our Base Campsite to enjoy a hot dinner and prepare for the next exciting day of our Ausangate climbing expedition.

Day 3. Ausangate Camp Base, Ausangate Morrine Camp

After a nutritious dinner, we retired early to rest before the early morning climb. Sleep can be difficult to achieve due to the excitement and altitude, but it is essential to be in top form for the ascent. We will wake up at 11 pm, preparing for an approximately 8-hour climb to Camp I, where we will establish our high camp.

The path to Camp I is steep and rocky, with inclines of up to 70 degrees in some places, and it will require all of our concentration and skill to overcome. We will bring everything we need to establish our camp at Camp I, including tents, sleeping bags, stoves, and food.

As we climb, the view becomes more impressive, with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the valley stretching below us. The darkness of the night slowly fades as we approach Camp I, and we can see the sunrise illuminating the landscape. Once we reach Camp I, we will take some time to rest and acclimate to the altitude before continuing with the climb.

Camp 1 of the Ausangate climb

Day 4. Ausangate morrine Camp, Summit (6,384m/20,939f), Camp Base

This day will be one of the most exciting and challenging of your life. Adrenaline will be running through your veins from the moment you wake up, knowing that a day full of adventures and challenges awaits you. At 11 pm, you will have a light breakfast that will give you the energy you need to start the hike at 12 pm. The path will be long and difficult, but you will be accompanied by a group of expert mountaineers who will guide and help you at all times.

The hike will take you through steep and rocky trails until you finally reach the glacier. Here, you will put on your crampons and rope up with your teammates to begin the ascent up the glacier. It will be an exciting and somewhat scary moment as you will be walking on ice and snow, with the mountain wall behind you.

Once you reach the foot of the wall, you will begin the climb for the next two hours. It will be a physical and mental challenge as you will have to climb through difficult and challenging terrain. But the view from the top will be spectacular and worth every step you have taken.

Once you overcome the first obstacle, you will start ascending the plateau. It will be a long and difficult path, but with the help of your teammates, you will manage to reach the pass in approximately three hours. From here, the summit will be only 50 meters away.

When you reach the summit, it will be an exciting and unforgettable moment. You will be able to see the entire mountain range of Vilcanota, and you will feel proud to have reached one of the highest points in the region. After enjoying the view and taking some photos, you will start the descent.

The descent of the wall will be exciting and a little scary, as you will have to use rappelling techniques to descend the four 50-meter lakes. But with the help of your teammates, you will do it without any problems.

When you reach the foot of the wall, you will be exhausted but happy. Then you will walk for two hours until you reach the moraine field, where you can rest a bit and eat something. Finally, you will reach the base camp around 5 pm, where you can enjoy a hot and well-deserved dinner and rest after a day full of adventures and challenges on the mountain. It will be a day that you will never forget and that will remind you that with effort and perseverance, you can achieve any goal you set for yourself.

Reaching the summit of Ausangate snow-capped mountain

Day 5. Camp Base, Ananta

This day will be one of the most challenging of your trip, but also one of the most rewarding. The hike to Rainbow Mountain will start early in the morning and take you through beautiful landscapes and steep and rocky terrain. But don't worry, you'll be accompanied by expert guides who will assist you at all times.

Once you reach the highest point of the hike, the Palomani Pass at 5200 meters above sea level, you'll be able to enjoy a spectacular view of the Andes and the impressive Ausangate mountain range. From here, you'll begin the descent to the Ausangate Lagoon camp, where you can rest and enjoy a well-deserved lunch.

The path continues through valleys and plains, where you can see llamas and alpacas grazing in the fields. It will be a long and challenging journey, but the natural beauty surrounding you will make every step worth it. Finally, you'll arrive at the Ananta camp, where you'll spend the night.

Here, you can enjoy a hot dinner and rest in a comfortable tent, surrounded by the tranquility of nature. The night sky will be filled with bright stars, and you can hear the sound of the wind through the trees and nearby rivers.

While resting at the Ananta camp, you can reflect on the day you've had and the beauty of the nature surrounding you. You'll also have the opportunity to meet other hikers and share your experiences with them.

Day 6. Ananta Camp, Rainbow Mountain, Cusco

Today is the last day of our climbing expedition to Ausangate, an adventure that has taken us through spectacular landscapes and challenged us physically and mentally. To celebrate our success, we have an exciting itinerary ahead of us today.

After a good rest, we wake up early and prepare for the final ascent. Today we will reach the Huarmisaya Pass, which is at an impressive altitude of 4977 meters above sea level. As we climb, the landscape around us becomes more spectacular with each step. We can feel the fresh air on our faces and the warm sun on our skin. Upon reaching the top of the pass, we have an incredible panoramic view of the surroundings. The natural beauty of the place is simply stunning, and we cannot help but feel a sense of triumph in reaching this point.

After enjoying the view, we begin the descent towards the Vinicunca Valley. This area is known as the Mountain of Colors, and is famous for its multicolored mountain and hill landscapes. After about two hours of walking, we finally reach our destination. The view is breathtaking: the mountains stretch far away in a series of vibrant colors, including red, yellow, green, blue, and brown. We stop to take some photos and enjoy the view before continuing our descent.

Finally, after an exciting walk, we reach the end of our climbing expedition to Ausangate. We feel proud and grateful for the experience we have had. Now it is time to relax and enjoy our victories, knowing that we have overcome the challenges and reached our destination. We take the road back to Cusco, remembering the special moments we have experienced during this adventure. Undoubtedly, this will be an experience that we will never forget.

Rainbow Mountain after the Ausangate climb

Ausangate climbing includes

  • Online advice: you will have a fully personalized advice by the trusted platform (Meet, Zoom, WhatsApp) for the planning of the expedition and know your interest in this destination.
  • Professional guide: professional guides of high mountain and accredited by MINCETUR and have experience in guiding expeditions, knowledge of Ausangate routes, are trained in first aid and high mountain rescue. They are friendly and know perfectly the culture and experiences.
  • Muleteers: a team of muleteers trained in the transportation of camp logistics.
  • Cook: professional chef in food preparation for the group, trained to prepare special foods such as vegan, vegetarian, celiac, among others.
  • Private transportation: The transportation for this expedition is private and will take you from the hotel in Cusco to the Pacchanta Community and back from the colorful mountain. The transportation is safe, has all the necessary certifications for the transfer of passengers.
  • Lodge: we have a lodge restaurant where we develop our gastronomic activities, a warm place with kitchen, dining room, bar and fireplace if you are cold.
  • Entrance to the museum: the company has a museum of native potatoes and handicrafts of this locality of Ausangate.
  • Ausangate typical clothing: you will have the opportunity to dress up in the local Ausangate clothing, take the best souvenir photos in the very nice places of our locality.
  • Client camping equipment: We have adequate mountain equipment to spend the night in the camps and high altitude camp of Ausangate. The elements included for the clients are (tent, sleeping bags, blanket, mats).
  • Base camping equipment: We have logistic equipment such as kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, chairs, tables, luggage bag of 7 Kg.
  • Climbing Equipment: We provide the best climbing equipment for our clients to succeed in climbing Ausangate. Among this equipment are harness, boots, crampons, ice axe, helmet, carabiner, ATC descender, Deysi chain. Also group equipment such as ropes, stakes, coordinos, express, ice screws, among others.
  • Food: we have a unique cuisine prepared with local ingredients, so you can taste the best dishes of Ausangate and also national and international representative dishes. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks are included.
  • Group toiletries: soap and towels are provided to wash your hands before and after the tourist activities.
  • Emergency and first aid logistics: we carry a first aid kit in case of injury or headaches. We carry an oxygen during the trek to solve the problems of lack of oxygen of the passengers. In case of serious emergencies, we have rescue stretchers and pneumatic splints to help the patient.
  • Entrance tickets to Ausangate and Rainbow Mountain: the entrance ticket for activities in the park of Ausangate, the mountain of colors and camps.
     

The Ausangate climb does not include

  • Transportation outside the expedition for the Ausangate climb.
  • The last dinner of the expedition.
  • Personal expenses.
  • Extra drinks.
  • Tips.
  • Personal climbing clothes.
  • Goggles or snow goggles.
  • Headlamp and batteries.
  • Trekking poles.

Additional services that you can hire:

Additional horse: If in case you have problems or you are not prepared to the rhythm of the expedition you can hire this service. It has a cost of USD 20.00 per day required.
Personal Tent: If you need to have your own personal tent, you can hire it for a cost of $ 5.00 per night. A total cost of $25.00 for 5 nights.

Recommendations for Climbing Ausangate:

Here's a list of recommendations for climbing Ausangate:

  • Planning: It's important to plan ahead and make sure you have enough time to complete the hike.
  • Proper equipment: Make sure you have the proper equipment for the hike, including appropriate clothing for the weather, proper footwear, backpack, sleeping bag, sleeping mat, flashlights, and other necessary supplies.
  • Food: Bring enough food and water for the entire hike, including energy-boosting foods like granola bars, dried fruits, and nuts.
  • Physical preparation: It's important to be physically prepared for the hike, as it's a very demanding route. Do some prior training exercises to improve your endurance and muscular strength.
  • Altitude: Ausangate is at a high altitude, so it's important to acclimate gradually before starting the hike. Take the time you need to adjust to the altitude before beginning the hike.
  • Guide: It's recommended to hire an experienced mountain guide for the hike. They can provide important information about the route, local culture, and safety.
  • Safety: Keep safety in mind at all times during the hike. Don't take unnecessary risks and follow all the guide's recommendations and safety signs.
  • Respect for the environment: Maintain responsible and respectful behavior toward the environment during the hike. Don't leave trash on the trail and follow appropriate waste disposal practices.
  • Local culture: Respect local culture and traditions during the hike. Learn about local customs and treat local people with respect and kindness.
  • Enjoy the scenery: Finally, enjoy the spectacular scenery that the hike offers. Take the time to appreciate the stunning views and natural beauty of the area.

Ausangate climbing price 2024

Reservation Policies

Reservations are made in advance with a 30% payment of the total cost. The remaining balance is paid in cash in Cusco during the informational briefing.

Payment Methods

  • Paypal (credit or debit card payments)
  • Bank Transfer.

Transaction Fees

Travel packages and programs include transaction fees for the 30% reservation payments.

Changes and Cancellation Policies

Tour rescheduling is allowed with proper notice, except for Machu Picchu tours. Passenger no-shows will result in the total loss of the service. Cancellation or withdrawal from the service will not be eligible for a refund.

Frequently Asked Questions about Climbing Ausangate

Here are some frequently asked questions about climbing Ausangate, along with detailed answers:

What is Ausangate?

Ausangate is a mountain peak located in the southern Andes of Peru. With a height of 6,384 meters, it is the fifth highest peak in Peru. Ausangate is considered a sacred mountain by the local inhabitants and has been an important pilgrimage site for centuries.

What is the best time to climb Ausangate?

The best time to climb Ausangate is from May to September, which is the dry season in the region. During this time, temperatures are warmer and there is less rain and snow on the mountain. Although it is still possible to climb Ausangate during the rainy season (October to April), the weather conditions can be much more challenging.

How long does it take to climb Ausangate?

The time it takes to climb Ausangate depends on several factors, such as the route chosen, the physical condition of the climbers, and the weather conditions. Generally, the ascent can take 4 to 6 days. If you have experience in similar mountains and are well acclimatized, it can be done in 4 days.

What is the most common route to climb Ausangate?

The most common route to climb Ausangate is the South Glacier route, which starts in the community of Pacchanta. This route is considered of moderate difficulty and can be done in about 4 days. However, there are other more challenging routes that can also be taken, such as the North route which is very technically difficult.

Is a permit required to climb Ausangate?

Yes, a permit is required to climb Ausangate. The permit can be obtained through the National Institute of Natural Resources (INRENA) in Peru. It is important to obtain the permit before arriving at the mountain, as authorities may ask for it at any time. In this case, the travel agency requests the permit by season.

Is it necessary to hire a guide to climb Ausangate?

It is not mandatory to hire a guide to climb Ausangate, but it is highly recommended. High Mountain guides are familiar with the mountain and can provide guidance and support during the climb. In addition, hiring a guide can increase safety during the ascent.

What equipment is needed to climb Ausangate?

The equipment needed to climb Ausangate includes standard mountaineering equipment, such as crampons, ice axes, harnesses, helmets, ropes, and camping tents. Camping supplies and equipment for cooking and heating water will also be needed. It is important to bring appropriate clothing for the mountain's weather, which may include jackets, gloves, hats, and mountain boots. Always consult the agency about the equipment that is being provided.

Is it dangerous to climb Ausangate?

Climbing Ausangate can be dangerous, as it is a high and remote mountain with extreme weather conditions. Climbers should be in good physical condition and have mountaineering experience before attempting to climb Ausangate. It is also important to be prepared for emergencies, such as avalanches, falls, and sudden changes in weather conditions.

Galería

Useful information for Ausangate climbing

The mountain Ausangate

The Ausangate mountain (in Quechua: Awsanqati) is the highest mountain in Cuzco and the fifth highest in Peru. Its maximum altitude is 6,384 masl. It is located about 100 kilometers southeast of the city of Cuzco. Among the Apus or Andean mountains, the Ausangate rises imposing, and is admired not only for its extraordinary beauty, but respected for what it means for the Cusco cosmovision: a sacred snow-capped mountain. To appreciate the sunrise and sunset from its surroundings is an indescribable spectacle, as well as to appreciate its turquoise lagoons that look like huge mirrors of the sky. Not to mention adventure sports, especially trekking and glacier climbing. All of them memorable experiences.

Location: Peru, Cusco
Altitude: 6384 masl (20944.88 ft)
Elevation: 2085 masl (6840.56 ft)
Coordinates: 13°47′19″S 71°13′52″O

Ausangate Climbing Guide

Link: The Andes: A Guide for Climbers (Ausangate)

Ausangate Climbing Story

Link: THE SOUTH PERUVIAN ANDES AUSANGATE

Last Climb to Ausangate 2022

Best German Team

 

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