Yayamari climbing is a unique experience for mountain and nature lovers in Cusco. Surrounded by a great number of mountains, this beautiful mountain offers one of the most stunning and challenging approach routes in the region. Despite being a less-climbed mountain, Yayamari has a lot to offer to those who venture to climb its summits.
Also known as Montura or Ambrocca, Yayamari has two peaks, with the main peak reaching 6049 meters above sea level and being the one climbed in the expedition. The first ascent to this mountain was made by Günther Hauser, Theodore Achilles, and Bernhard Kuhn from Germany on August 15, 1957, demonstrating that this mountain is a true challenge for climbers. The route taken on this expedition begins in the town of Phinaya, but before reaching Yayamari Base Camp, climbers will visit the famous Rainbow Mountain, an impressive and colorful natural spectacle that is one of the main tourist attractions in the region. From Base Camp, the attack on the main peak of Yayamari begins.
During the expedition, climbers will be able to enjoy breathtaking views of the Sibinacocha Lagoon, one of the largest dams in Cusco, and continue on their way through the Condor Pass, which is located at an altitude of 5200 meters above sea level. Finally, the expedition ends in the picturesque village of Killita, where climbers can rest and recover after the exciting mountain adventure. For those looking for a unique and thrilling experience in Cusco, Yayamari climbing is an excellent choice.
Climbing a mountain of 6,000 meters is a challenge for any mountaineer for different reasons such as altitude, lack of oxygen, technical difficulty that these mountains represent. The ascent to Yayamari with its altitude of 6049 m represents a challenge for its characteristics of its access route, denominated as one of the mountains of 6 thousand easy of the Vilcanota mountain range. However, this mountain is dangerous because of the amount of crevasses it has on the northwest route, which in many years was the classic route to reach the summit of Yayamari. Today you have to look for a better route in the season where you want to climb, there are routes on the north and west side where you can access the first summit of Yayamari and then head to the main summit. This expedition is designed so that the climber can adapt to the change of environment and enter a mountain environment with altitudes above 5 thousand meters. For this reason, the first day we have the visit and hike to the Rainbow Mountain which is one of the important attractions of Cusco, then we have an ascent to the base camp where we have a day to choose the best climbing route and with the possibility of ascending to a base camp or make the attack from the base camp. To finish the expedition we will head towards the Ausangate snow-capped mountain passing by the Sibinacocha Lagoon.
Day 1. Cusco, Mountain of Colors, Phinaya Village
Day 2. Phinaya Village, Yayamari Base Camp
Day 3. Yayamari Base Camp, Camp I
Day 4. Camp I, Summit Yayayari 6049 mals, Base Camp
Day 5. Yayamari Base Camp, Sibinacocha Lagoon
Day 6. Sibinacocha Lagoon, Killita Village, Cusco
The Yayamari climbing expedition starts with the pick up from the hotel in Cusco at 5.00 am to go to the Rainbow Mountain. We will travel on the Cusco-Puno highway until we reach the district of Checcacupe to go to the small district of Pitumarca. From this point begins the dirt road that goes to the town of Phinaya, we will make a small detour to go to the Rainbow Mountain. The parking lot is located approximately 1 km from the top of Vinicunca, we will walk for about 40 minutes of pure ascent. From the highest peak of Rainbow Mountain (5034 m) we can observe the incredible coloration of this attraction that has been formed naturally over many years.
We will make the descent in about 30 minutes to continue our journey through the Ausangate valley until we reach the Jahuaycate pass (5070 masl), from here begins a downhill route to reach the Sibinacocha lagoon. One of the largest dams in Cusco with 110 million m3. The regulation of the natural lagoon allows an additional availability in low water season of 7 m3/s to 12 m3/s. Finally we will see the imposing snow-capped mountain of Yayamari 6049 m. We will arrive at the village of Phinaya where they will be waiting for us with a coffee. Tonight we will spend the night in communal lodging. In the afternoon we will have the opportunity to visit the village, its churches and the countryside.
This day begins our hike through a place full of mountains and distant view of the Qelccaya Glacier, one of the largest tropical glaciers in the world. This approach hike is to the Yayamari climbing base camp. Along the way we will be able to observe many alpacas and local herders. The camp is located near the Cascana lagoon and 500 meters from the Yayamari snow-capped mountain.
On this day there will be a review of the equipment and a final choice of the climbing route. Depending on the characteristics of the mountain, we will advance to camp 1 or transport the climbing material to the glacier tongue so that the attack to the summit can be made from base camp. On an important day for this reason we will make ascents from camp 1 to the glacier tongue as an entrance to the altitude and recognition of the route to the summit.
The climb starts with a coffee and a light breakfast at 1.00 am, we will get ready with the climbing equipment and we will start with the attack to the summit at 2.00 am approximately. The climb to the summit will last for 6 to 7 hours of climbing. We will arrive to the summit at 8.00 am with the sun rays, we will visualize the mountain range of Vilcanota, Ausangate, Chumpe and the jungle chains of Ollachea and Marcapata. We will start with the descent to the base camp, where our team will be ready with a buffet lunch to celebrate the summit of Yayamari.
As a farewell to the challenging mountain we will start the hike to the Ausangate mountain. Little by little the mountain will be moving away until ascending to the Ccascana pass 5040 m, we will begin a descent until we reach the Sibinacocha lagoon where we will have lunch overlooking this largest lagoon in Cusco. The road borders the head of the lagoon and in the background the mountain Chumpe 6106 m. In this lagoon we can observe many birds such as ducks, Andean flamingos and others. This part of the road there are many shepherds with their alpacas that live in remote areas. We will arrive to our campsite Mormurani.
This is the last day in the Vilcanota mountain range, we will start with the ascent to reach the Condor pass, during this journey we will see many vicuñas, alpacas grazing on the road, we will also pass through mountains like the Huayrurupuncu and down to the village of Sallma. And from a small ascent we will arrive to the Condor pass 5221 m from where we will be able to observe the imposing snowy Ausangate 6384 m. From this pass we will descend until we reach the village of Killita where we will have our lunch and say goodbye to our team that has accompanied us during this expedition trip and then take our mobility to Cusco.
Include hiking and stair climbing in your regular routine, as well as running and cycling, while weights will allow you to strengthen your torso. Join a climbing gym to learn the basics, such as being able to use a harness and tie a rope.
Consult the price for the 2023 season
The Yayamari mountain is one of the least difficult mountains in Cusco with its 6049 m, which has been called the basic mountain for climbing 6 thousand. However, nowadays the access routes to the summit are becoming more difficult to overcome due to the appearance of gigantic seracs and deep crevasses.
Yayamari also known as Ambrocca or Ambroja in Spanish spelling or Montura for its two summits, is a mountain in the Cordillera Vilcanota, in the Andes of Peru, about 6,049 meters high. It is located in the Cusco Region, Province of Canchis, District of Pitumarca, and in the Province of Quispicanchi, District of Marcapata. Yayamari is located northeast of the Sibinacocha and Ccascana lagoon, north of the lagoon called Amayuni and northwest of Huila Aje and Condoriquiña.
Location: Peru, Cusco
Altitude: 6049 m (19,846 ft)
Elevation: 722 m (2.369 ft)
Coordinates: 13°46′00″S 70°58′54″W
First ascent 15/8/57 - Günther Hauser, Theodore Achilles, Bernhard Kuhn (Germany)
The Yayamari mountain was climbed by the northern route of the Yayamari.
A team of Germans (Matthias, Jorg, Lutz) participated with the support of Luis, Mario as guides, Juvenal and Alipio as cook and muleteers at base camp. More information.
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