The new climbing route to Ausangate

The new climbing route to Ausangate 2024

Information

The climb to Ausangate is one of the significant activities in mountaineering in Cusco, being the highest in the region at 6384 meters. Many mountaineers undertake an adventure through different routes, ranging from challenging ones on the north face to the normal route on the south face. On the south face route, there used to be a 200-meter wall leading to the so-called Plateu.

This 200-meter wall has disappeared in the 2024 season, with a large portion of the glacier section vanishing, blocking access through this route and revealing a rocky wall that is very difficult to climb. However, the only remaining route is the shield route, which was the most challenging on Ausangate.

Today, climbers are scaling the ice shield wall, increasing the mountain's difficulty level from AD to D+. Climbing the shield requires ice screws every 5 to 7 meters per section. The climbers' physical preparation must be significant, with experience in ice climbing to overcome this wall. Additionally, appropriate equipment such as rigid boots, technical crampons, and technical ice axes are essential.

https://www.huillcaexpedition.com/images/galleries/la-nueva-ruta-de-escalada-ausangate-al-2024-1719875691.JPG

Note: The red line shows the usual route where the glacier part disappeared, while the green line indicates the new route for the year 2024.

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