Short Ausangate Climb 4 days - Huillca Expedition

Short Ausangate Climb 4 days

Embark on a once-in-a-lifetime expedition to the summit of Nevado Ausangate (6,384 m.a.s.l.), the highest mountain in Cusco and the fifth-highest in Peru. This 4-day ascent is designed for experienced mountaineers acclimated to high altitude and skilled in snow and ice climbing. Along the route, you'll traverse massive glaciers, technical slopes, and demanding terrain, surrounded by some of the most breathtaking landscapes in the Peruvian Andes. The summit rewards climbers with an unparalleled panoramic view of the Vilcanota Range, a spectacle reserved for those daring enough to challenge extreme altitude.

Since its first ascent in 1953 by renowned climber Heinrich Harrer, Ausangate has been a top destination for elite mountaineers worldwide. The normal ascent route is moderate in technical difficulty but physically demanding, requiring solid fitness and prior experience in mountains over 6,000 meters. With the support of our certified high-altitude guides, top-tier equipment, and well-organized logistics, this climb transforms into an unforgettable experience of personal challenge and achievement.

Why Choose the Ausangate Climb?

  • Conquer Peru’s fifth-highest peak – A challenge exclusive to experienced mountaineers.
  • Unmatched panoramic views – Witness the remote beauty of the Vilcanota Mountain Range.
  • Moderate technical difficulty with demanding sections – Ideal for climbers with ice and snow experience.
  • Certified high-altitude guides – Safety and expertise at every stage of the ascent.
  • Fully equipped expeditionPrivate transport, base camps, meals, and technical gear included.

Are you ready to push your limits and summit one of Peru’s most iconic peaks? Book your Ausangate Climb now and experience the thrill of high-altitude mountaineering in the Andes!

  • Detailed Itinerary
  • Included & Not Included
  • Prices & Availability
  • Packing List
  • FAQ
  • Reservation Policy

Why Choose Our Ausangate Climb?

Our Ausangate Climb (6,384 m.a.s.l.) is a challenging expedition designed for mountaineers with experience above 6,000 meters. With a team of certified high-altitude guides, comprehensive logistics, and a strategic itinerary, we provide a safe and well-organized journey to the summit of one of Peru’s most iconic mountains.

Demanding Route with Breathtaking Views

  • Technical ascent with sections of ice and snow climbing.
  • Extreme challenge with slopes up to 60° and exposed ridges.
  • Unmatched panoramic views of the Vilcanota Mountain Range and glaciers.

Safety and Expert High-Altitude Guides

  • Expedition leaders certified in high-altitude mountaineering.
  • Full safety equipment, including fixed ropes, crampons, harnesses, and ice axes.
  • Satellite communication and emergency rescue protocols.

Full Logistics and High-Altitude Camping

  • Private transport from Cusco and support from pack animals.
  • Well-equipped camps with thermal tents and high-altitude cooking.
  • Nutritional meals designed for high-performance trekking.

Exclusive and Personalized Experience

  • Small group sizes for better acclimatization and safety.
  • Flexible itinerary based on weather conditions and physical performance.
  • Secluded and remote adventure on a less-traveled peak.

Push your limits and conquer the Ausangate summit with us! Book now and experience Cusco’s ultimate mountaineering adventure.

Itinerary for the Ausangate Climb – 4 Days

Day 1: Cusco – Surapata – Base Camp (4,800 m.a.s.l.)

Our climb to the Ausangate summit begins early in the morning. At 4:00 a.m., our team will pick you up from your hotel in Cusco to embark on a private transport journey along the Cusco-Puno highway, passing through stunning Andean landscapes until reaching the town of Checacupe. From here, we continue to Pitumarca, the gateway to the Vilcanota Mountain Range.

The route leads us to Chilca, the last town before our trek begins. A 20-minute drive takes us to Surapampa, where our cooks, guides, and muleteers will be waiting to welcome us. After a nutritious breakfast, we gear up and begin a 3-kilometer hike to reach Base Camp (4,800 m.a.s.l.), set at the foot of the Ausangate glacier. In the afternoon, we take an acclimatization hike towards Mariposa Mountain, exploring part of the route we’ll take in the coming days.

  • Hiking Distance: 3 km
  • Hiking Time: 3 - 4 hours
  • Difficulty Level: Moderate
  • Maximum Altitude: 4,800 m.a.s.l.
  • Accommodation: Tents at Base Camp

Day 2: Base Camp – Camp 1 (5,476 m.a.s.l.)

After a high-energy breakfast at 7:00 a.m., we prepare for our first major ascent. At 9:00 a.m., we start the challenging 700-meter climb across moraines and rocky terrain to reach Camp 1 (5,476 m.a.s.l.).

This ascent takes 3 to 4 hours, with strategic stops to rest and adapt to the altitude. From Camp 1, we enjoy breathtaking views of the towering glaciers and ice walls that await us the following day. After setting up camp, our mountain guides provide a technical briefing on the climbing gear, ensuring that everyone is prepared for the final summit push.

  • Hiking Distance: 4 km
  • Hiking Time: 3 - 4 hours
  • Difficulty Level: High
  • Maximum Altitude: 5,476 m.a.s.l.
  • Accommodation: Tents at Camp 1

Day 3: Camp 1 – Ausangate Summit (6,384 m.a.s.l.) – Base Camp

This is the most demanding day of our expedition. We wake up at 11:30 p.m. and have a light breakfast before starting our ascent at 1:00 a.m. using headlamps to guide the way.

The first stage of the climb leads us across a heavily crevassed glacier, requiring crampons and fixed ropes for safe progress. Soon, we reach the steepest section of the route—a 200-meter ice wall with a 60-degree incline, the most technical part of the ascent. After scaling the ice wall, we continue for four more hours over the glacier until reaching a final exposed ridge that leads us to the Ausangate summit.

We expect to reach the summit between 7:30 a.m. and 8:00 a.m., where we are rewarded with unparalleled panoramic views of the Peruvian Andes, the Vilcanota Mountain Range, and the Rainbow Mountain. After celebrating our successful summit, we begin our descent via the same route, using rappels in 60-meter sections to descend the ice wall.

Upon arrival at Camp 1, we take a short rest before continuing down to Base Camp, where we enjoy a well-deserved lunch and recover from the expedition’s most physically demanding day.

  • Hiking Distance: 6 km (round trip)
  • Total Ascent/Descent Time: 15 - 18 hours
  • Difficulty Level: Extreme
  • Maximum Altitude: 6,384 m.a.s.l. (Ausangate Summit)
  • Accommodation: Tents at Base Camp

Day 4: Base Camp – Surapata – Cusco

After the monumental effort of reaching the Ausangate summit, we begin our last day with a hearty breakfast at 7:00 a.m.. We then dismantle camp and start the final descent back to Surapampa, where our private transport will be waiting.

During the drive back to Cusco, we reflect on our incredible achievement, retracing the Andean landscapes we crossed at the start of our journey. We arrive in Cusco between 2:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m., marking the end of an unforgettable high-altitude expedition.

  • Hiking Distance: 5 km
  • Hiking Time: 2 - 3 hours
  • Difficulty Level: Moderate
  • Minimum Altitude: 4,800 m.a.s.l.
  • Arrival in Cusco: Between 2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m.

What’s Included in the Ausangate Climb?

To ensure a safe, well-organized, and high-level experience, our Ausangate climbing package includes everything you need for a successful and comfortable expedition in one of Peru’s most challenging high-altitude climbs.

Personalized Planning and Pre-Trek Assistance

  • Online consultation and expedition planning via WhatsApp.
  • Assessment of your experience level with tailored recommendations.
  • Detailed briefing on the route, acclimatization, and required equipment.

Expert Guides and Support Team

  • Certified high-mountain guide with extensive experience in Ausangate expeditions.
  • Team of muleteers trained in camp logistics and gear transport.
  • Specialized high-altitude chef, offering custom meal options (vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, etc.).

Private and Safe Transportation

  • Private vehicle transfers from Cusco to Surapampa and back.
  • Fully certified transport with passenger safety equipment.

High-Mountain Camping Equipment

  • Individual mountain tent for each climber.
  • Thermal sleeping mat and warm blankets for comfort in camp.
  • Group camping facilities, including dining tent, kitchen tent, and hygiene tent.
  • Chairs, tables, and duffel bags (up to 7 kg per person) for added convenience.

Technical Climbing Gear

  • Personal climbing gear: harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, carabiners, ATC belay device, Daisy Chain.
  • Group climbing equipment: ropes, snow stakes, slings, quickdraws, ice screws, and more.

Full Expedition Meals

  • Breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and high-energy snacks, prepared with fresh local ingredients.
  • Custom menus for special dietary needs, arranged in advance.

Emergency and First-Aid Logistics

  • Comprehensive first-aid kit with essential medications.
  • Portable oxygen supply to assist with acclimatization.
  • Rescue stretcher and pneumatic splints for emergency evacuation.

Permits and Entry Fees

  • Official entrance to the Ausangate Reserve and expedition permits.

Prepare for an extreme and safe adventure in the Nevado Ausangate!

Services Not Included in the Ausangate Climb

To ensure proper planning for your high-altitude expedition, please note that the following services are not included in the standard package:

  • Transport outside of the expedition itinerary
  • Final dinner after the climb
  • Personal expenses and additional purchases
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Sleeping bag
  • Trekking poles
  • Climbing goggles
  • Personal clothing and gear
  • Headlamp

Optional Equipment Rental Services

If you need specialized mountaineering equipment, we offer optional rental services for added convenience:

High-altitude sleeping bag – Mummy-style, rated for temperatures as low as -18°C (0°F).
Cost: $5 USD per night ($15 USD for 3 nights).

Mountaineering boots – High-performance models such as La Sportiva or similar.
Cost: $20 USD per day (Available in sizes EU 38 to 42).

For a fully equipped expedition, please contact us in advance to ensure availability of additional gear.

Rates and Availability – Ausangate Ascent (4 Days)

The Ausangate Ascent (4 Days) is available year-round, although we recommend doing it between April and September, when the weather is more stable, and mountain conditions are optimal.

Departures are guaranteed with a minimum of 2 people.

Ausangate Ascent Rates

Group Tour – Price per Person

  • USD 1,535.00 per person
  • To confirm the reservation, a 30% deposit of the total tour cost is required
  • Confirmed departures with groups of 2 to 6 people
  • A minimum of 2 participants is required to start a new group
  • Solo travelers can join already organized groups

Prices do not include VAT (18%).

Private Tour – Personalized Quote

  • Exclusive and fully personalized service
  • Ideal for those seeking greater flexibility and privacy
  • Guaranteed departures only during the dry season (May to September)

Contact us to receive a personalized quote based on group size and season.

Dates and Availability

  • Group Tour: Departures are subject to availability with groups of 2 to 6 people
  • Private Tour: Available only from May to September

If you wish to confirm a specific date, contact us in advance to check availability and secure your spot.

Payment Methods

  • PayPal: Payments via credit or debit card (a 6% fee applies for international transactions)
  • Bank Transfer: Available for national and international deposits
  • Yape or Plin: Fast and secure payments within Peru
  • Cash Payment: Available at our office in Cusco

Book in advance and secure your spot on this challenging expedition. Experience the thrill of conquering the majestic Ausangate and pushing your limits on this unique adventure in the Peruvian Andes!

Frequently Asked Questions about the Ausangate Climb

To ensure you are well-informed before your expedition, we have compiled the most frequently asked questions from our clients who have completed this route.

1. What experience level do I need to climb Ausangate?

The Ausangate climb is a high-altitude mountaineering route that requires prior experience in summits above 5,000 meters. You should be familiar with the use of crampons, ice axe, rope, and basic ice climbing techniques. If you are a beginner, we recommend first attempting less technical peaks such as Nevado Chachani (6,057 m) or Vallunaraju (5,686 m) before tackling Ausangate.

2. What is the best season to climb Ausangate?

The best climbing season is from May to September, when the weather is most stable, with less precipitation and better glacier conditions.
Rainy season (November to March) can make the ascent more challenging due to deep snow and electrical storms.

3. How long is the expedition, and what is the itinerary?

The Ausangate climb lasts 4 days and 3 nights, with the following itinerary:

  • Day 1: Cusco – Surapampa – Base Camp (4,800 m)
  • Day 2: Base Camp – High Camp / Moraine Camp (5,476 m)
  • Day 3: Summit Day (6,384 m) – Return to Base Camp
  • Day 4: Base Camp – Surapampa – Return to Cusco

The itinerary is designed for gradual acclimatization before the summit push.

4. What are the temperatures during the climb?

Temperatures on Ausangate can be extreme and unpredictable:

  • Daytime: Between 0°C and 10°C
  • Nighttime and early morning: Can drop to -20°C or lower at the summit

Essential gear: Thermal clothing, waterproof jacket and pants, insulated gloves, and a sleeping bag rated for -18°C or lower.

5. What are the main challenges of the climb?

The biggest challenges include:

  • Extreme altitude: Proper acclimatization is required to minimize altitude sickness.
  • Glacier traverse and ice climbing: The route includes steep ice slopes up to 60°.
  • Unpredictable weather: Strong winds, subzero temperatures, and sudden climate changes.

6. How should I physically prepare for the climb?

We highly recommend a training plan 2 to 3 months before the expedition, including:

  • Cardio & endurance: High-altitude hiking, long-distance running, and cycling.
  • Strength training: Leg and core workouts to endure long ascents with gear.
  • Technical practice: Training with crampons and ice axe in snowy or glaciated terrain.

Pre-acclimatization hikes in Cusco (such as Ausangate Trek or Rainbow Mountain) are recommended before attempting the climb.

7. What technical gear do I need to bring?

The required climbing equipment includes:

  • Crampons and ice axe
  • Climbing helmet
  • Harness and ropes
  • Carabiners and ATC belay device
  • Thermal gloves and waterproof jacket
  • Sleeping bag (-18°C or lower)

If you don’t have some of these items, we offer rental options upon request.

8. Do I need altitude sickness medication?

Altitude sickness can affect climbers, so we recommend:

  • Gradual acclimatization in Cusco or other hikes before the climb.
  • Staying hydrated and avoiding alcohol before the expedition.
  • Carrying altitude medication (Diamox) – Consult your doctor before taking it.

Our team carries portable oxygen and a first aid kit in case of emergencies.

9. Can I rent climbing gear if I don’t have my own?

Yes, we offer rental options for essential gear, including:

  • High-altitude sleeping bags (-18°C rated)
  • Mountaineering boots (limited sizes available)
  • Crampons and ice axe
  • Trekking poles

It is recommended to book your rental equipment in advance to ensure availability.

10. Can the climb be done in fewer days?

The standard route takes 4 days, but experienced mountaineers can complete it in 3 days on a private expedition. However, reducing the time is not recommended due to the high altitude and risk of altitude sickness.

11. What happens if I can’t continue the climb?

If a participant feels unwell or cannot continue:

  • A descent will be arranged with our support team.
  • Oxygen will be provided if necessary.
  • The guide will assess if evacuation to Cusco is needed.

Safety is our priority, and our guides will ensure the best decision for your well-being.

12. What is the cancellation and rescheduling policy?

Our cancellation policy:

  • More than 7 days before departure: 90% refund.
  • Between 4 and 7 days before departure: 70% refund.
  • Less than 3 days before departure: No refund.

Rescheduling: Available only for private tours with at least 5 days' notice, subject to availability.

13. How can I book the expedition, and what payment methods are available?

To book your spot, contact us via:

  • WhatsApp: +51 918 970 611
  • Email: info@huillcaexpedition.com

We accept the following payment methods:

  • PayPal (6% international transaction fee applies).
  • Bank transfer (national and international).
  • Yape or Plin (for Peruvian payments).
  • Cash payments at our Cusco office.

A 30% deposit is required to confirm your reservation.

Are you ready to take on one of the most challenging and rewarding climbs in Peru? Book now and conquer the majestic Ausangate!

Packing List for the Ausangate Climb

To ensure a safe and comfortable experience on this high-altitude expedition, it is essential to have the right equipment. Here is a complete list of what you need to bring:

1. Documents & Money

  • Original passport or ID (required for registration).
  • Cash in Peruvian soles (PEN) for personal expenses and tips.
  • Travel insurance (recommended for high-altitude activities).

2. Backpacks & Storage

  • Main backpack (50-70L) – For clothing, climbing gear, and essential items.
  • Daypack (20-30L) – To carry necessary items during the hike (water, snacks, camera).
  • Waterproof bag or backpack cover – Protection against rain and snow.

3. Technical Clothing for the Expedition

  • Thermal base layers (long and short sleeves) – Breathable fabric to regulate body temperature.
  • Waterproof & windproof jacket (Gore-Tex or similar) – Essential for extreme weather.
  • Trekking & softshell pants – Flexible and resistant to cold temperatures.
  • Waterproof pants (optional) – For intense snow or rain conditions.
  • Thermal underwear – Helps retain heat in extreme temperatures.
  • Wool beanie or balaclava – A must-have for high-altitude cold.
  • Thermal & waterproof gloves – One thick pair for extreme cold and one thin pair for trekking.
  • Thermal socks (3-4 pairs) – Prevents moisture and extreme cold.
  • UV protection sunglasses – Crucial for high-altitude solar radiation.
  • Buff or neck gaiter – Protection against wind and snow.

4. Proper Footwear

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots (waterproof and insulated) – Required for glacier climbing.
  • Trekking shoes – For sections without snow and camp use.
  • Gaiters – Extra protection against snow and cold.

5. Technical Climbing Equipment (If you don’t have these, they can be rented in advance)

  • Crampons – Necessary for glacier walking.
  • Ice axe – Essential for icy climbing sections.
  • Climbing harness – For securing yourself during the ascent.
  • Helmet – Protects against falling ice or rocks.
  • Locking carabiners & prusik cords – For securing the rope while climbing.
  • Belay device (ATC) & safety system – For controlled descents.
  • Ice screws & snow stakes – Used for securing the rope in hard snow.

Note: Some of this technical equipment is included in the expedition, but if you have your own, you are welcome to bring it.

6. Hydration & Nutrition

  • Water bottle or hydration system (Camelbak) – Minimum 2 liters per day.
  • Water purification tablets or filter – For purifying natural water sources.
  • Energy snacks (granola bars, nuts, chocolate, coca candies).

7. Sleeping & Camping Gear

  • Sleeping bag (-18°C or lower) – Recommended for extreme cold.
  • Insulated sleeping pad – Provides warmth and comfort.
  • Headlamp with extra batteries – Essential for nighttime climbing.
  • Quick-dry towel – For personal hygiene at camp.

8. Personal Hygiene Kit

  • Toilet paper & wet wipes.
  • Biodegradable soap & toothbrush.
  • Sunscreen (SPF 50+) & lip balm with SPF.
  • Hand sanitizer or alcohol gel.

9. First Aid & Altitude Medicine

  • Personal first aid kit – Includes pain relievers, anti-inflammatories, altitude sickness medication, band-aids for blisters, antiseptic, and bandages.
  • Portable oxygen (optional) – Helps in case of altitude sickness.
  • Aspirin or Diamox – Helps with acclimatization (consult your doctor first).

Final Recommendations

  • Pack light but bring all essentials.
  • Dress in layers to adjust to changing temperatures.
  • Stay hydrated and eat enough to maintain energy levels.
  • Acclimate properly before the expedition.

Important: Technical gear like crampons, ice axes, and harnesses are included in the package. However, if you have your own, feel free to bring it.

Ready to conquer the mighty Ausangate? Prepare well and enjoy an unforgettable high-altitude adventure!

Policies for the Ausangate Climb

Important Considerations

If a participant chooses to interrupt the expedition for personal reasons, they will be responsible for any additional costs incurred, such as meals, transportation, or accommodation. No refunds will be issued in the following cases:

  • Flight, train, or other transportation delays or cancellations.
  • Adverse weather conditions that prevent the climb from continuing.
  • Health issues or personal decisions to abandon the expedition.

Cancellation Policy

If you need to cancel your reservation, the following conditions will apply:

  • 5 days or less before departure: No refunds will be issued.
  • 7 to 12 days before departure: 70% refund of the total amount.
  • More than 15 days before departure: 90% refund of the total amount.

Important: Administrative and banking fees are non-refundable under any circumstances.

Date Changes

If you wish to modify the date of your ascent (only valid for private tours), the following conditions apply:

  • More than 15 days before departure: Free date change.
  • 3 to 5 days before departure: 50% surcharge of the total cost.
  • 2 days or less before departure: No date changes or refunds allowed.

All date changes are subject to availability.

Contact for Information & Assistance

If you need more information or have any questions about the Ausangate Climb, feel free to contact us:

  • Email: info@huillcaexpedition.com
  • WhatsApp: +51 918 970 611

We recommend reviewing these policies before booking to avoid any inconvenience. We’re here to help you plan your ascent to the summit of Ausangate

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